Sunday, July 1, 2012

Realities of Ghana #1

I want to preface this post by saying I hope no one finds me to be ungrateful after reading the upcoming blog entry. I am so grateful and blessed to have had this experience in Africa that most people will never experience in their lifetime. It has been (so far) a great learning experience and will serve me very well in my future. However, I feel it might seem to my readers that Africa is all peaches and cream with a few funny mishaps, when really it is the hardest thing I have ever been through in my life. A few people were surprised that I am excited to leave this country and I realized that my blog doesn’t convey all sides of things. I have written it to share my experiences with everyone and to give everyone a fun, good read, and somewhere along the way I forgot to mention some harsh realities. Anyway, here is the entry.

I have been in Cape Coast since Friday and it has been really nice here. More on that later. Despite the nice trip I am having, most all I think about is how I only have 9 days left in this damn country and how I can’t wait to get home to my family and boyfriend and friends and my car and A/C and yogurt and grocery stores and closet and fast internet and comfy bed, among 1,000,000 other things. The first week here was really hard for me. By the end of the first week I was crying on the phone to my parents and wishing I could go home. My friend and confidant, Emma, went to Africa last summer, and when I called her she said “This is only your first week. Give it a chance, I promise it will get better.” And she was right, it did get better….sort of. I have come to realize that here in Africa, at least for me, better is just synonymous with “easier.”
I have become used to the fact that we run out of water all the time. I have become used to the fact that I have to shower with freezing cold water from a bucket, sometimes leaving me with leftover soap residue in my hair. I have become used to the fact that we pretty much never have power and that I should never assume I will be able to cook anything I want when I want it. There is never any food to eat except fruit and oats (if we are lucky enough to have hot water) and bread, everything else is always too spicy, and my stomach hurts almost every day – but I have become fairly used to all of this. While I have not become used to the heat or humidity still, I have learned to deal with it a bit better. I have learned to deal with the starving feeling in my stomach a bit better. I also find it slightly easier to sleep through the rooster’s crow and dog’s bark and the goats and sheep bleating their little hearts out.
However, the reality of things is that “easier” is not actually synonymous with “better,” and that things never really got better. I just learned to deal with them. I love teaching, but other than that, the days are long and boring and hot and starving and complicated. I have posted a lot of the good, fun, cool stuff that I have been doing, but I don’t think that anyone realizes these are very short parts of very long days, and that every day there is also a multitude of crap piling up.
I think a major part of the problem is that it seems like people here don’t actually give a crap about anything most of the time. I wanted to go to Africa, to somewhere I was needed. I wanted to teach in schools that needed help and deserved help and impact a community that is having trouble on its own. Then I got here, and realized that the reason they need teachers is because the other teachers are too damn lazy to show up to work every day. And the reason the community needs help is because the people just sit around all day and do nothing. The reason the kids can’t read English by age 15 is because their parents don’t care about their education and take them out of school to help them farm a few days a week. So this just makes me think…What the hell is wrong with these people? Why the hell am I here?
It’s very frustrating. None of this is the fault of the kids, and most of the kids aren’t lazy, and they listen to me and want to learn, which is why I love most of my kids that I teach. But this country’s rural areas have a serious problem with discipline and service and caring about results. How can you become a developed nation if your teachers don’t show up to teach the kids? I am lucky enough to teach in a school where all the teachers (except one – can’t be perfect) are there every day to teach the kids. The rest of the schools generally have teachers who only show up sometimes. When they feel like it.

I wonder a lot whether or not if I had been put in an orphanage of starving children somewhere if I would feel this way. I have a feeling I wouldn’t feel this way at all. I don’t think I would complain as much about the bucket showers and lack of electricity if I felt like I was making a difference…but I barely feel that here. I feel like everything I have done for these kids is going to go away when I go away, because the lack of effort in the community will just swallow my effort whole, like a python to a mouse.

Also, despite the fact that Ghanaian people are generally very nice and helpful, a lot of people are just damn obnoxious and rude. I’m so sick of it. I’m also very sick of being touched…you don’t just touch people you don’t know! That would not fly in America, and for a reason! I’m not trying to say “America is so much better than Ghana,” but I definitely think we have an upper hand on the courtesies and politeness. People barely ever say “thank you” here. Also, their customer service is HORRIBLE, and people just grab at you or poke you and think it’s okay. None of that is okay, and I miss the U.S. where people realize that. I have decided it’s not snobby to expect good customer service. Anyone who thinks it is, needs to come to Ghana. Anyone who thinks Americans overreact to that kind of stuff too much, has not been to Ghana. Common sense also just goes out the window here. Don’t ever expect it.

In the end, I’m just tired of Africa. I want my schedule back and my reliable food and water and power and not have to deal with people pointing out the fact that I’m white every second of every damn day.